２０２０年はブドウの成長サイクルが早く、強い日差しを受けた年です。収穫された少ない重量のブドウは、非常に凝縮していました。
２０１９年から２０年に移り変わる冬の雨量は標準的で、穏やかな気候のもと、軽い凍結に留まる日々が多く見られ、２月末には木々が芽吹きの準備を始める兆しが見られました。芽は３月末に早々に伸び始め、２０２０年のブドウは非常に早熟になるだろう事が予測されました。４月初旬に幾日かの冷気が訪れた後、気温は再び上昇し、ブドウの成長は暴走しました。４月後半から５月一杯まで一貫したリズムで伸び続け、平均すれば週に２枚ずつ新葉が増えるスピードで枝が伸びていきました。ドメーヌのチームはそのスピードに追いつくよう芽かきに精を出し、その後、新枝を持ち上げる相次ぐ作業も、成長リズムに合わせて遂行していきました。５月１８日頃にはコートでブドウの花が咲き始め、５月下旬にオート・コート・ド・ニュイで咲き終わりました。暑さと少ない雨のもとで新たに夏が始まり、７月中旬までこの好条件下でブドウは育っていきました。非常に早くにブドウは色づき始め、２０２０年の早熟度が記録的であることが観測されました。また、この天候条件はベト病とウドンコ病の脅威も妨げることになったので、ブドウ樹は健全な状態に保たれました。７月末から８月にかけて水不足の影響が表れ始め、コートの畑は徐々に黄色に傾いていきました。それでもブドウの成熟は阻まれることなく一貫したリズムで進んでいきましたが、水不足のせいでブドウの粒は思うように膨らみませんでした。
収穫は８月２８日にコートで始め、９月１０日にオート・コートで終えました。２０１８年、１９年同様、ブドウの健全さは疑う余地のないパーフェクトな状態で、ブドウの選別はほとんど必要ありませんでした。
パーフェクトな健全さ、完遂した成熟度、水不足に起因する果汁の少ないブドウから、２０２０年は偉大な凝縮度を誇るワインが生まれました。一方、フレッシュさや酸味の点では１９年より高いことが言えます。つまり、２０２０年のワインは１５年、１８年、１９年のヴィンテージの系統に属し、特徴としてはピュアで正確さがあり、極めて凝縮度が高く、美しいバランスに恵まれた完熟の年と言えます。
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Andy Howard, 27/01/22. Cask sample. Surprisingly broad and ripe on the palate for an Hautes-Côtes. Just a little one-dimensional although there is an interesting mineral finish. 15.5
Ripe apricot fruit on the generous aroma. Medium- full and creamy, with a touch of pithy apricot skin and plenty of freshness and tension. Almond kernel and sapidity to finish. Yummy.
A relatively deeply pitched nose features notes of ripe plum, dark currant and a whiff of pinot spice. There is fine mid-palate density to the moderately powerful middle weight flavors that offer very good depth and persistence on the lingering finish. This isn’t refined but it does deliver fine quality. 86-89 ♥
A moderately reduced nose seems notably ripe. There is again very good density to the slightly more vibrant flavors that conclude in a lingering if mildly austere finish that is less complex. This should repay a few years of cellaring. 86-88
A discreet but perceptible dollop of wood frames ripe aromas of black raspberry, violet and a floral wisp. The sleek, delicious and vibrant flavors possess more evident salinity on the slightly edgy bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This may or may not lose the edginess in the short time it has to age. 85-88
A more restrained and slightly cooler nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis and soft earth suggestions. The finer and nicely vibrant middle weight flavors evidence more minerality on the lingering finish that is also ever-so-mildly edgy along with a hint of dryness. Again, it’s hard to predict whether the edginess will dissipate. 85-88
Ripe strawberry fruit aroma, the succulence flecked with white pepper. Generously rounded and juicy; full and ripe, with light snap to the tannin and appetizing bite. Full on the front palate, quite open and airy through the middle, and more delicate and precise to finish.
Once again there is just enough wood to notice surrounding the ripe and nicely spicy aromas of black cherry, poached plum and exotic tea scented nose. There is fine richness to the concentrated, mouth coating and powerful middle weight plus flavors that conclude in a robust, even slightly butch, and rustic finale. Patience absolutely advised. 87-89
The Vosne-Romanée shows fine balance, and while the oak is prominent, it seems well absorbed. It has deep fruit that’s well-integrated with the toasty oak, giving quite a big village for medium-term drinking. Give it ten years, and the oak should mellow into Vosne spiciness. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
A slightly toasty nose combines notes of cassis and poached plum with those of violet, spice and a whiff of warm earth. The finer medium-bodied flavors possess a seductive texture on the palate coating finish that displays fine depth and persistence. This quality effort manages to pull off the trick of being robust yet refined. 89-91 ♥
The Chambolle-Musigny brings energy to the feast. The minerality and acidity give this wine lovely freshness and zip. I have never tasted this cuvee before, but I will look for it again. A good Chambolle from Vosne? Why not! (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Discreet though again perceptible wood influence still easily allows the very ripe aromas of chocolate, cassis and dark currant liqueur to be appreciated. The rich, ripe, palate coating and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors manage to retain very good punch on the raspy, mildly edgy, rustic and youthfully austere finale. 87-89
It’s on the dark side, and the toast is ample for my palate. However, the extraction is only moderate, so in the end, it works quite well. That said, the toasty oak and dark Nuits fruit do not release much energy in this wine. (Drink from 2030) – Good (87p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Black-cherry aroma then an energetic palate with a firm bite of tannin, encased in rich dark fruit.
A slightly herbal note. Very fresh, with a smoky, graphite finish.
Here too there is a touch of wood setting off the wild black currant, earth and sauvage scents. There is again good punch to the mouth coating flavors that display better balance on the slightly longer and more structured finale. 88-91
Deeply intense, but with better energy, this seems to carry the oak better. The extraction is reasonable and lets the wine reveal itself a bit. Still, it’s not going to win any awards for the most hedonistic wine. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Upright and up-toned, floral and bright. The straight, clipped palate is enfolded in ripe red fruits. Firmly threaded with acidity and well defined at the edges. The finish is savoury, salty and sappy. Spot-on. Both racy and ripe.
A slightly more elegant if decidedly less spicy and cooler nose speaks of red cherry, raspberry and pretty floral nuances. The sleek, delicious and notably more mineral-driven flavors possess a finer texture on the detailed and sneaky long finish that is better-balanced. 88-91
A perfumed and very pretty nose offers up an array of red and dark berry aromas laced with hints of earth, spice and the sauvage. The medium weight flavors follow suit in that they are relatively elegant in the context of what is typical for La Platière, all wrapped in a nicely persistent, balanced and complex finale. 88-91
A very ripe nose is presently a bit flat and lacks the same freshness as the best in the range. By contrast there is excellent verve and freshness on the dense, serious and sappy medium weight plus flavors that brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a beautifully persistent and complex finale. Given the freshness on the palate, I’m guessing the nose will eventually freshness as well and my predicted ranged offers the benefit of the doubt. 91-93 ♥
The issue in 2020 is concentration, and wines like Nuits-Saint-Georges can become dense and inky if over-extracted. This is well balanced, with the ample fruit absorbing the oak well. Not bad; not bad at all. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88-90p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
A quite haughty aroma, then reserved on the palate. Shows good depth and density, with a firm grip to the tannin. Vigorous and powerful on the finish.
It is ripe but has a colder cut. Good persistence.
Pungent aromas of reduction and wood suppress the underlying fruit at present. Otherwise, there is a highly seductive and refined texture to the medium weight flavors that brim with sappy dry extract on the detailed, stony and compact finale that is supported by both firm tannins and bright acidity. Worth considering. 90-93 ♥
Aux Brûlées is my favourite terroir at Domaine Michel Gros – its parcel is located next to the illustrious Liger-Belair and the magnificent Meo-Camuzet plots. It’s spicy and mineral with lovely energy, and it carries the toasty oak well thanks to said energy. A large cuvee for Brûlées – 2500 bottles – and it’s a fine one. (Drink from 2035) – Very Fine (93-94p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Notes of menthol and toast are present on the nose of kirsch, poached plum and plethora of spice nuances. The velvety and delicious middle weight flavors possess plenty of punch on the firmly structured finale that is supported by bright acidity. This is still coming together and will need at least a few years of cellaring before it shows its best. 90-93 ♥
Which is better, Brulees or Reas? In 2020, it’s not that easy to say. The Clos des Réas is a bit more restrained and delicate than the energetic Brûlées. Commercially, Clos des Réas is an important wine for the domaine – and it has done very well with the 2020. Borderline hedonistic, if you like the style. (Drink from 2037) – Fine (92-93p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Moderate but not really intrusive wood sets off very ripe aromas of poached plum, cassis, black cherry liqueur and warm earth scents. The succulent, velvety and mouth coating big-bodied flavors flash evident power and muscularity on the youthfully austere and impressively long finish. Note that this is very much built to reward extended cellaring and should age accordingly. 91-93
The Clos Vougeot is a big wine with a large framework of toasted oak. It has fine balance, and with time the oak should integrate beautifully. It’s big, long, and intense, and will take some years to unfold. It has good energy, but at the moment the oak is masking some of the liveliness. (Drink from 2040) – Very Fine (93-94p) – Tasted 19/01/2022