2016年は、4月27日早朝の災禍に始まる困難の年です。その一瞬の「春の遅霜の害」は、コートドールのブドウ畑の約半量にあたる新芽を、無残にも奪っていったのでした。
私たちの畑は総合的に見れば30％の芽を失うだけで済んだので、相対的には被害が少なかったドメーヌと言えるでしょう。それでも霜害の重度は区画ごとに大きな差があり、ヴォーヌ・ロマネとフォンテーヌ・サンマルタンには殆ど被害はありませんでしたが、クロ・ヴージョ、ニュイ・サン・ジョルジュ、シャンボール・ミュジニーでは約半分の芽が遣られていました。また、8ヘクタールのオート・コートの区画も、75％もの被害を被りました。
5月は雨が降りがちで気温も低かったので、被害を受けたばかりのブドウ樹の再生は極めて難しい状態でした。そのうえべト病が激しく追い打ちをかけ、6月もそれほど天候条件は改善されませんでした。
7月になってやっと安定した良い天気に恵まれるようになり、嬉しいことにその好天候は収穫までずっと続いてくれました。春に受けた痛手が原因でブドウの収穫期は大幅に遅れていきました。
収穫は9月28日にコートで始め、10月9日にオート・コートで終えました。
9月の天気こそがこのヴィンテージの酒質の最たる所以となっています。この月は平年より2.5度高く、豊富な日射がブドウに降り注ぎ、収穫前に夏のような天気が続いたのです。その好条件のもと、ブドウは健全に、そして理想的に熟していきました。
2016年のワインは色が深く、美しいプロポーションを持ち、ピュアな芳香を放ちます。嬉しいことに出来上がったワインには霜害の影響がまったく見られず、それどころか春に収量が減った分、凝縮して、華やかなものになっています。
Bright light yellow. Deep, precise nose blending a floral dimension, lemony note and mineral undertones. The palate is appealingly mouth-filling, fat, ethereal and fresh. A magnificent Burgundy showing instant accessibility. 90/100
The nose is juicy. It reveals notes of ripe juicy lemon and small notes of juicy, ripe plum associated with small touches of quince, as well as very discreet notes of almond (in the background) and an imperceptible note of small yellow berries. . The palate is well balanced, fruity and offers a little straightness, a slight acidity, minerality, precision, good definition and good structure. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of ripe lemon, quince and small notes of fleshy / juicy plum associated with small touches of small yellow fruits as well as very discreet notes of crunchy white fruits in the background (nectarine / apple) and beeswax. . Good length. 89-90
Notes of citrus, petrol and straw are trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The round, delicious and attractively vibrant flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the clean and moderately dry finish. This is a relatively dense wine in the context of what is typical for the Hautes Côtes and should drink well shortly after release.
Cherry and a touch of blackberry on the nose. It is juicy on the strike. Bright and fresh. More red fruit on the palate. Light tannins. Very peppy. Energetic finish..like the fresh finish. Very attractive.
A fresh and very pretty nose features mostly aromas of various red berries that are spiked with soft wood and earth wisps. I like the texture of the nicely vibrant and naturally sweet flavors that possess only a trace of rusticity on the sneaky long finale. Worth a look. ♥
Léger nez de cassis mûrs, avec quelques notes savoureuses de umami aussi. Texture douce sur le palais. Suave et plutôt séduisant et vraiment un peu charnu pour un Hautes Côtes. Bonne fraîcheur qui le soutient. Finale sur la fraîcheur et la texture crémeuse. Plus de profondeur et de richesse des tanins que d’habitude et plus de générosité. Beaucoup de fruits aussi. Plus riche que le Bourgogne. C’est la parcelle qui a été détruite à 50% et qui en a bénéficié finalement. Excellent.
…nice spicy notes and red fruits; consistent palate, with a lovely fruity freshness on the finish. 15,5/20
The nose is aromatic and offers a very fine intensity. It reveals notes of blueberry, iris and blue fruits associated with touches of blackcurrant, strawberry, blueberry as well as discreet hints of racy / graphite minerality. The palate is fruity, balanced, precise and offers sweetness, tension, good freshness as well as a fine tangy structure. On the palate this wine expresses notes of black cherry, blueberry and more slightly plum associated with small touches of blackberry, crunchy red fruits (cherry, raspberry) as well as discreet hints of liquorice stick, flowers and with an imperceptible hint of colas. The tannins are well developed and very discreetly firm. Very discreet hints of dried almond / hazelnut and tonka bean on the persistence / retro. 89-9
This is also quite pretty and very fresh with its airy aromas of slightly riper aromas of both red and dark cherry, spice and a deft application of oak. There is good volume and richness to the subtle mineral-inflected flavors that are all the more attractive thanks to the lovely sense of underlying tension on the refreshing finish. This offers very good quality for its level and is definitely worth checking out. ♥
Black cherry fruit is accented by leafy tobacco notes in this red, whose ripeness is offset by burly, slightly astringent tannins.
Bright crimson. Fragrant and unforced. Very good attack and no sense of second best. Lots of punch and classical build in this wine made from ripe-enough fruit. 16,5/20
Cask sample. Light to mid cherry. Fragrant like the Bourgogne Fontaine but more oaky and creamy on the palate. But again a deliciously complete wine with al dente tannins.16/20
The nose is fruity, elegant, well-rounded and offers a very fine power. There are notes of black cherry, cassis and more slightly small berries associated with touches of wild red fruits, rose / violet, blueberry as well as very discreet hints of liquorice, tea, spices. and a very discreet hint of gray pepper. The palate is fruity, balanced and offers good definition, juiciness, a fine tangy structure, a fine smoothness, roundness, a fine straightforwardness as well as a little minerality. On the palate this wine expresses notes of black cherry, plum and slightly red berries associated with touches of blackberry, raspberry, discreet hints of liquorice as well as a very discreet hint of cardamom and tobacco. The tannins are fine and well developed. Good length. Roundness. 89-90
Higher tone aroma. It is lively and fresh and mineral. A pure and zesty palate. There is a very appealing sweetness to the forrest fruit… a lively combination of sweetness and acidity. The tannins are really quite refined, ripe and finely grained. There is elegance here. It is lighter bodied, but intense and has a refined, slightly mineral finish.
Purple dress. Black fruits and especially blackberry dominate the nose, supported by a refined oak. The palate is structured, fresh with well-integrated tannins; the archetype of beautiful red burgundy.17/20
Discreet nose. Lots of juice and appeal but/and a little fatter than the Vallons bottling. For those looking for a little more concentration. 16+/20
Cask sample. Mid cherry red. Such pretty, sweet, red cherry on the nose. Cherry tart. Dry, tight and fresh, elegant and refined in texture and a little more savoury on the finish. Just a lovely, complete wine and well priced.16/20
The nose is elegant, fruity and offers a fine power, a delicacy and a very fine concentration. It reveals notes of black cherry, black berries and purple plum associated with small touches of red fruits, flowers. Sichuan pepper and a subtle hint of spice. The palate is fruity, balanced, discreet and offers a nice juiciness, precision, a little tension, a nice grain, dynamism, a good definition as well as a little fat / a little sweetness. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of black cherry, fleshy / juicy raspberry and small notes of fleshy red fruits, plum associated with small touches of flowers as well as very discreet notes of zan, cardamom and a very discreet toasted note. Good length. The tannins are well constructed and discreetly firm. Score: 90
Appealing, medium intense cherry-red. Focused nose revealing beautiful aromas of ripe red fruits underscored by a touch of fresh oak. The palate is mouth-filling and fat with a lightweight, soft mouthfeel. Clean, precise and persistent. 90/100
The violet is distinguished in finesse. On the palate, the freshness comes from a clayey chew. Its persistence evokes a Vosne-Romanée … For a chaplain to the epicure. 16/20
M. Gros noted that this had only recently completed its malo and not surprisingly it was hard to read as the nose was reduced and the flavors full of gas. I like the energy and more evident minerality but the finish was strict and short, which I attribute to the abundant gas. Even so, my rating should be taken as provisional though I should point out that this is normally an excellent example of the genre and thus I extend the benefit of the doubt.
Though open and light-weight, this red shows moderately intense flavors of cherry, berry, earth and iron. Backed by a solid tannic structure, this stays fresh and focused on the finish.
This is juicy and succulent. Aromatic. Ripe summer fruits. It is alluring with sweet, ripe fruit. Good freshness too which comes through on the finish. Supple tannins. There is richness and structure with elegance here. Classic Vosne-Romanée. Score 16.5
Light ruby. Perfumed and seductive. Quite appealing already. Just needs the acidity to settle down a little. Lightly sandy tannins on the end… 2020-2030. 16,5/20
A perfumed nose consists of spiced plum, violet and a hint of sandalwood. There is more volume if less minerality to the richer and slightly more voluminous flavors that possess a velvety mid-palate though there is trace of rusticity that can be found on the firm and lingering finale. This should also drink reasonably well young if that’s your preference.
The core of black cherry and violet flavors mingles with clove, graphite and roasted beet accents in this expressive red. Firms up, with plenty of fruit to match the structure. Fine length. 93 points
This is spicy and rich. Ripe generously full raspberry character. There are plentiful, thicker, richer tannins. There is plenty of white pepper on the palate and an aromatic note, but it’s not floral it is spicy. It is layered. This has a firm, quite bold structure and density. Rather powerful on the finish for a village wine. Score 16.65. Needs time.
Scented, aromatic, youthful, red fruits and subtle pastry on the nose with well integrated oak, red cherry and bramble notes. Succulent tannins and impressive length. 96 points
This too sports a spicy nose though the fruit profile is higher-toned with its notes of red currant, rose petal and lavender, all of which is trimmed in a background hint of wood toast. The attractively detailed middle weight flavors are shaped by refined tannins on the solidly complex and impressively persistent finish. This is a lovely Chambolle villages and worth checking out. ♥
An elegant version, this red is focused by vibrant acidity, ushering the cherry, currant, smoke and spice flavors to a lingering aftertaste. Supportive tannins are firm and integrated, and the finish resonates. Long and succulent. 93 points
Mix of deep red cherry fruit and some blueberry fruit. Juicy strike. It is open and energetic and has an easy harmony. Lighter bodied than the MSD for example, very fresh, piquant red peppercorn..more VR than NSG in style. It is pleasing. Score 16
Little shutdown in youth but lovely concentration. Leather, dark cherry and peppery spice. Needs time to integrate.
This too is reduced and the only aspect that I can mention is a subtle touch of wood. Otherwise there is notably better size, weight and richness as the medium-bodied flavors possess an admirable abundance of sappy dry extract that also buffers the firm but not hard core of tannins. This isn’t refined but it’s very Nuits and should age well but also drink well young thanks to the extract.
A rich version, this sports black cherry, blackberry, violet and toasted spice aromas and flavors. Fine harmony and balance make this charming, though there is no shortage of structure. Excellent length. 92 points
A slightly smoky aroma, dark fruit, touch of blackberry. This is very fresh, straight, clipped at the edges. Slightly savoury with deep firm, tense, but ripe tannins. This has a good core. Quite concentrated, maybe because of the losses to frost. Good tension at the end..really has a sense of graphite minerality at the end. I like this a lot. Top notch village NSG. Score 16.5
Cask sample. Light to mid cherry red. A hint of attractive smoky reduction for now but still fragrant. Sour cherry on the palate, with a notable fruit depth on the mid palate but with just as much freshness as the two slightly lighter wines just tasted (Au Vallons and Fontaine St-Martin). Tannins are more chewy and the fruit a little less sweet. A better bet for the table. 16/20
Light ruby with bricking. Light nose combining red berry fruits with toasted oak accents. Although palate weight is light, the attack is ample and well-endowed. The mid-palate and finish are stricter and tinged with faint bitterness. Keep. 95/100
An overtly sauvage and very earthy nose is composed by notes of plum, violet and black cherry. The medium weight flavors are also attractively rich with a sleek and supple mouthfeel that is enhanced by the somewhat finer grain of the supporting tannins on the dusty and saline finish. This is a bit less structured and a wine that should also drink reasonably well on the younger side if desired.
Spicy aroma. Slightly exotic notes…hint of cardamon, ground coriander. Onto the palate it tastes rich and ripe. Ripe mulberry fruit, generous, spicy…touch of five spice..anise. It is really quite concentrated. The tannins are rich, with a slight soft burr to them..the acidity sits very neatly in the palate and the finish is aromatic and spicy. So very moreish…Score 16.5
A pungent nose is composed of wood and reductive notes but there is good freshness and energy to the lighter weight but pure and delineated flavors that brim with minerality that carries over to the focused and linear finish. This is an interesting wine in that the mid-palate is succulent which contrasts with the linear and mildly austere finale. This is lovely; indeed I would go so far as to describe as a textbook example. ♥
This is juicy and fulsome. Plentiful fruit on the nose and strike. Touch of liquorish to the tannins, also touch of anise. Good freshness. It is quite full and dense. At the moment the tannins are a touch robust maybe… and the finish is a touch burly. But it is NSG and quite succulent within this structure. Always takes a while to come around. Score 17.5
This is sufficiently reduced to overshadow the fruit though it does seem ripe. On the plus side there is evident power and mid-palate concentration to the admirably rich medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of dry extract on the firm but not really rustic finale. This is excellent and should both age well yet be approachable after only a few years of bottle age. Worth considering. ♥
This has a firm and cool aroma. slightly smokey…quartzy. The palate is juicy on the strike, less reserved than the nose. It is vigorous, cold – the warmth of the dark cherry fruit contrasts with the cold minerality and cold acidity here. I like the juxtaposition. Firm, ripe, the tannins are not as austere as they can be. The finish is long..here we step up a lot in length..very mineral. Score 18.65
Mid crimson. Light nose with sweet, ripe red fruits – raspberries? Quite intense with more marked tannins than the village wine. You need patience to benefit from the premium over the village wine. 16,5+/20
Cask sample. Mid cherry red. Hints of smoke and spice alongside the sweetness of cherry. Plenty of spice and a creamy oak overlay on the palate, with fruit at the core and smooth and compact tannins. Lovely harmony and proportions. 16,5+/20
Beautiful, perfumed Burgundy. The aroma shows layers and layers of cherry and violet fruit. It’s like a cat purring in your mouth too, Gorgeous, gentle velvety tannins latent power. 95 points
A restrained and beautifully spicy nose offers up notes of purple fruit, violet, anise and a hint of wood toast. There is good muscle, punch and power to the middle weight plus flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the beautifully persistent finish. This is a blend of power and refinement though at least some patience will be necessary. ♥
Racy and taut, displaying cherry, strawberry, vanilla, toasty and spice flavors. Features an intense core of ripe fruit, with well-mannered tannins and moderate grip on the lengthy, smoke-tinged finish. 95 points
This is fruity – summer fruits on the nose. Smooth and seductive on the palate…slips across. It has volume and get it is so very elegant. Svelte tannins, texture of chamois leather and some very nice freshness to support this. It has a natural harmony and charm…long rather aromatic finish. Suave wine. Score 18.45
Cask sample. Light to mid crimson. Delicate yet somehow intense in its fruit fragrance. Firm but creamy tannin texture, deep and long and with freshness to the end. A hint of sour cranberry on the finish. Lovely. 17/20
Fairly light crimson. Subtle, broad, somehow powdery nose. Quite fragrant and then some bright, orangey fruit with tension rather than concentration the dominant attribute. Casual and convincing for those who seek traditional burgundy. Lightly muscular – certainly not rich and heavy. 17/20
Spicy nose, lime stone and chalk. Savoury, quite lively tannins. Will be great in 5 years.
Fairly light hue tinged with garnet. Refined, endearing nose successfully blending red berry fruits and delicate oak. The palate is ethereal yet ample and full-bodied. Fat is enveloped in extremely refined tannins delivering a harmonious feel in this superlative wine. 95/100
This fabulous terroir gave birth to this cuvée “Clos des Réas” marked by great elegance. The nose is expressive, I would even say exuberant, deploying a wonderful bouquet evoking red cherries, wild strawberries, cranberries and blood orange, ennobled with a touch of roasting. The palate is full-bodied and generous with a particularly velvety, almost sensual texture. The whole is persistent, harmonious and remarkably balanced. 93 points
Michel Gros inherited the Domaine Jean Gros estate and the entire Clos des Réas vineyard which is the only premier cru monopoly of Vosne-Romanee (so far) while being the only premier cru in the village that does not touch a grand cru. Like all the other wines from this very traditionalist producer, it spends a minimum of 18 months in oak barrels to give it exceptional longevity. The grapes are completely destemmed; the premier crus receive 50% new oak; part of the juice is concentrated by a machine similar (entropy evaporator) to that used by Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur and Domaine Anne-Francoise Gros, if necessary. A vertical tasting with Michel Gros and his son Pierre in the cellar. All the wines were aerated in the bottle for six and a half hours. The consequence was unforeseen: the 2013, 2016 and 2017 performed better than the 2014 and 2015. The 2011 I encountered 3 years ago was also surprisingly surprising. I thought maybe it was because only the weaker vintages could be accessed young, since most of Michel’s wines are made to age. Therefore, my suggestion is to drink such vintages now and collect the exceptional vintages for your cellar. Emitting a fragrant, refreshing and well defined aroma, dominated by sweet spices of cinnamon, raspberry, dried flower, menthol and stone. The freshness and precision repeated on the palate which was magically neither tannic nor rich despite an intense extraction, revealing instead a real ethereality and linearity; refined tannins offered a mellow grace while the winning acidity animated the detailed, mineral finish that was also exceptionally polished and subtly plump. I clearly know how to appreciate a great wine made in an old school style despite being of the younger generation. 95 points
Here the expressive nose is similar to that of the Brûlées though with a bit more wood in evidence and it can also be found on the round, velvety and very rich medium-bodied flavors that are less mineral-driven, all wrapped in a seductive, dusty and less structured finale. As is typically the case, this should be approachable on the younger side.
This is oaky, offering mint, vanilla, toast and vegetal aromas and flavors, wrapped around a core of cherry. Lacks the purity of other reds from Vosne, yet shows intensity, persistence and a succulent feel. 93 points
This has plentiful fruit on the nose. There is richness and density of fruit on the attack. Lovely generosity. Fruit saturation. It has a charm too. There is lively acidity. The structure is very good, but not too big. In fact there is a marked elegance. The frame draped in luscious fruit. The finish is long and fruity and sustained. 100% new oak, but soaks it up. Mostly Rousseau. Score 19.35
Noticeable wood fights somewhat with the otherwise fresh red and dark currant, earth and a hint of smoked meat character. The rich, full-bodied and very serious flavors possess excellent size and weight along with excellent drive on the powerful and ever-so-slightly warm finish. This is slightly woody at present but it appears to have the underlying concentration that should enable the wine to eventually absorb the oak.
