Winter 2020-2021 proved to be mild and damp, so much so that soils were well provided with water coming out of winter and the mildness of end February created fear of a very early bud-break. Fortunately, the month of March proved to be cooler, but temperatures rose again at end March. When the intense incidence of frost occurred on 6/7/8th April, the vegetative cycle was already under way. Damage was very severe, but equally very different depending on the vine parcels. Parcels at the top of slopes, being more forward, were devastated, while slower developing parcels on flatter ground down-slope suffered relatively limited damage. On average, losses were estimated at 40 to 50% in parcels on the Côte de Nuits. However, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits were totally spared, since located higher up and so later-developing. Following this brutal hiatus, and linked to rather cold months in April and May, vegetation had difficulty taking off again and the harvest promised therefore to be a late one.
The difference in development between frozen vines and others was very visible. The month of June saw the return to summer weather and engendered growth at a lightning pace. The rest of summer was marked by rather unfavourable weather that complicated green growth management and favoured the development of cryptogamic diseases. From mid-August, weather conditions improved, allowing veraison to be finished off and ripening to progress. At this period, grape health was satisfactory, but oïdium was present in an important number of parcels, especially in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. In the first fortnight of September, the weather remained dry and sunny, allowing ripening to advance at a good rate and calming down the development of oïdium.
Harvesting began at the domain on 19th September for the Côte and finished on 3rd October in the Hautes-Côtes. On the Côte de Nuits, grape healthiness remained very satisfactory, with light sorting carried out at harvest. In the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, grape health was more affected, notably due to a rainy spell at end September, and sorting was more rigorous to keep only the best quality. One of the parcels was not harvested, its grape quality being too damaged.
Unlike the three preceding vintages, 2021 promises to be a fresher vintage but of very lovely quality despite capricious weather, a vintage that might be qualified as “classic”. The wines are noteworthy for lovely balance, fruit that is very present and great finesse. The regional appellations already offer immediate pleasure, while the most prestigious climats will be suitable for laying down.
January 2023. Impressive and classy Hautes-Côtes Blanc. Crystalline fruit, golden hue in the glass. Acidity is high (as expected from the Hautes-Côtes) but there is ripeness of stone fruit to balance. Trade price seems very fair. Should be GV. 16/20
October 2023 – New oak and fresch citrus. Vibrant, crunchy fruits, savoury spice and a toasty lift. Bright and balanced. 91 points
January 2023. A pretty and very pinot nose of red berries and subtle earth nuances gives way to delicious, detailed and vibrant flavors that culminate in a clean and refreshing finish that is just structured enough to repay a few years of keeping. 86-88
The 2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, from the ‘other side’ of the RN74, is aged in foudres for 6 months and then barrel for 12 months. It has a simple but quite generous red cherry and strawberry scented nose. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry on the entry, modest depth, quite pointed acidity with a citric finish. A bit sharp at the moment. 84-86 Points
19 October 2022. In the commune of Vosne for this.
Ooh, that’s bright, has good direction and a super pure fruit nose. Silky, broad, lithe, lots of flavour energy again, with good intensity. Keep a while, I think, but this has fine material.
Moderate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. Otherwise, there is even better density to the sleek and intense flavors that exude more evident minerality on the youthfully austere finish that is shaped by a firmer core of acidity. This needs at least a year or two of patience first. 86-88
The 2021 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge comes from one instead of their two plots this year. It has a crisp nose with cranberry and redcurrant fruit, subtle tertiary scents in the background. The palate is marked by sour cherry and orange rind on the entry, granular in texture with a linear, straightlaced finish. Drink over the next 3-4 years. 85-87 Points
An assembly cuvée – “In 21 the frost wasn’t so bad here but the maladies were.”
Plenty of colour. A bit of reduction is making the fruit seem darker but there’s plenty of energy here. Mouthfilling, good energy again, nicely textured, framed with some tannin but quite fine-grained and with lots of material.
A somewhat cooler array is composed by notes of red and dark pinot fruit, plum, violet and a touch of green tea. The lighter weight if less concentrated flavors also possess very good verve and detail while displaying a finer texture on the chiseled and lightly austere finale. 86-88
Another in a series of well-coloured wines. Darker, almost suggesting a faint reduction but becoming ever more precise with air. Broad, fresh, cool fruit – a little tannic grain so keep a while in the cellar but in 3 years, or so, this will make a lovely, quite fresh bottle.
Here the nose is at once slightly riper yet a bit more elegant as well with its combination of red and blue pinot fruit, spice and discreet floral hints. I very much like the texture of the energetic and slightly denser flavors that exude evident minerality on the dusty, lightly austere and sneaky long finale. Worth considering. 86-89
January 2023. Cooler notes. Crunchy, crisp, briary redcurrant and berry fruit. An elegant Pinot which is quite delicate, with good floral touches, and fine tannins for further ageing. 15,5/20
19 October 2022. The domaine’s 7 ha monopole – 4 ha of pinot, 3 of chardonnay.
Also slightly reductive but you can see the redder fruit here with fine cooking herbs as accents. Direct, vibrant acidity, and lots of energy, the tannin frames this wine but finer and less obvious than previous Au Vallon. Given the acidity I might be tempted to drink this a little younger but the finish is fine, red and perfumed. Yum! The last drops lose the reduction and show much more floral perfume.
This is also quite firmly reduced and unreadable in its present condition. More interesting are the slightly richer and more refined medium weight flavors that possess a lovely underlying tension as well as a seductive texture, all wrapped in a lingering and moderately austere finale. This could use more depth, but the necessary material appears to be present for that to occur.
The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Village has a tightly-knit bouquet with black cherry, raspberry coulis and light orange blossom scents; hints of pressed violet emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite steely at first, but well focused, even if it does lack a bit of “VR” flair on the finish. 86-88 Points
January 2023 – Intriguing combination of meatiness and rose petal on the nose. Fragrant, deep colour, lacks a little mid-palate concentration but nevertheless a classy village Vosne. 16/20
From three parcels; a large part from Reas. Rivière is tiny and a bit more from Colombière – about 1 hectare.
Attractive, wide aroma, very inviting darker fruit and spice. Mouth-filling – not just energy, flavour energy too. A slight dryness of tannin so wait 2 years to start with but the density, freshness and fine flavour make this a very good wine!
Spicy aromas of plum, dark currant and violet are trimmed in just a soupçon of wood. There is very good volume to the sleek, refined and punchy medium-bodied flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the clean, mildly austere and sneaky long finish that is also sufficiently structured to repay up to a decade of cellaring. 89-91
A bright pinkish purple. A light reduction with some quite forceful fresh plum fruit coming out underneath. Not especially luscious in 2021 but there is plenty of vivacious energy. Good acidity, a little barrel toast, surprising length. Clear-cut and dynamic. Some light tannins, all in balance. 50% whole bunch vinification for this wine. 89-91 Points
Three parcels at the bottom of the slope plus Argillieres next to Musigny but north facing.
Yes – cliche elegant perfume here – lovely. Some gas today but still open, fresh, mouth-watering flavour slowly growing in intensity and even a small frame of tannin too. Again, keep a couple of years before approaching this but it’s proper Chambolle. The finish is one of the more impressive ones here.
A spicy and distinctly earthy nose features notes of red and dark currant along with a vague suggestion of the sauvage. The lilting and surprisingly delicate lighter weight flavors possess both a lovely sense of energy and delineation while exhibiting good if not special length on the mildly rustic and youthfully austere finale. This should drink well on the early side. 88-90
From 4 Vosne-side parcels three are down-slope plus a higher one
Open, quite airy and attractive, faint spice notes too. Silky again, freshness a modest framing with ultra-fine tannin. Mobile flavour in the finish which is a little saline. This will be a good one.
A top note of green tea is present on the cool and ultra-fresh nose of just sliced plum, red berries and just enough wood influence to merit mentioning. There is slightly more volume to the richer flavors that are slightly more rustic on the more complex and slightly longer and firmer finale. 88-91
The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaliots has a light nose that like many wines from this appellation, is missing a bit of fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, slightly chalky in texture, moderate weight. What I would like is more flair on the finish, but it’s not that kind of vintage. Just a bit conservative. 86-88 Points
January 2023. Cask sample. Deeper, darker, earthier style of Nuits. Ripe dark fruit, firm tannins, density on the palate. Will develop very nicely. Could be GV. 16,5/20
Just under 1er Poirets, the name relates to the flints in the soil – very rare in the côtes. ‘This sector, like the Clos de Vougeot, suffered much less in 2021.’
Nicely, faintly, oak-spiced. Also floral – that’s a great combination. Properly shaped, growing with a velvet tannin but cool, delicious darker fruit too. Wait 3-5 years for this but all is well in place the finish already quote juicy!
Firm reduction dominates the underlying fruit today. Otherwise, there is excellent freshness, detail and verve to the caressing and delicious middleweight flavors where a subtle bead of minerality adds a sense of lift to the linear, youthfully austere and slightly angular if long finale. 87-90
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis en la Rue Vergy has darker fruit, mulberry and blackberry, sous-bois, and tobacco scents, missing a little harmony but it will stitch together during its élevage. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, velvety smooth, well judged acidity with a very nuanced, silky finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle but there is a very elegant Morey in waiting here. 90-92 Points
Perfumed and a little smoky. CO2, broad flavour, concentrated, almost a little rose flavour but all is destemmed here. Clean, easy finishing. It will be very good!
There is lovely layering to the aromas of red currant, newly turned earth and hints of the sauvage and forest floor. The relatively rich and caressing medium weight flavors that possess very good mid-palate density while offering fine length on the moderately austere and decidedly rustic finale that is sufficiently well-structured to repay up to a decade of cellaring. 88-90
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin La Platière comes from a new parcel, this cuvée debuting with the 2019 vintage. It has a commendable nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, light loamy scents percolate through with time. The palate is mediumbodied with finer tannins and better balance than Gros’ Nuits Saint-Georges, harmonious with a precise, minerally finish. Very fine. 90-92 Points
A saline, almost earthy width to this interesting, slightly spiced, wine. A broader palate, more comfortable over the palate too – the tannin is present but less visible.
This is also very spicy with its array of decidedly earthy dark currant, black cherry and soft sauvage nuances. The utterly delicious, round and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors possess solid length on the robust and slightly rustic finish. This also could use better depth, but more will almost certainly develop if given a chance as this wine has a good aging track record. 90-92
The usual blend of Aux Murgers and Aux Vignerondes composes the 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru. It has a fragrant nose with dried roses permeating the redcurrant and strawberry fruit; an underlying touch of mineralité becomes more prominent with time. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, nice flesh here but it needs a little more finesse and terroir expression towards the finish. 89-91 Points
From Murgers and Vignes Rondes – this assembly made each year.
Hmm, that’s also a very lovely nose with plenty of attractive perfume. Direct, cool fruit, modest tannin, really mouth-watering almost juicy. Another wine with a very good finish too.
A restrained but perfumed and even spicier nose reflects notes of sandalwood, anise, exotic tea and pretty floral nuances on the mostly red and dark raspberry scents that are also trimmed is discreet wood. The sleek and almost painfully intense middleweight flavors coat the palate with dry extract while exhibiting impressive power on the balanced, long and more complex finale. At least some patience would be beneficial. 91-93
The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru has a very well defined nose with vivid dark cherry and raspberry fruit, touches of crushed stone and rose petals. Wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good fruit concentration considering the growing season, quite savoury towards the finish without the length of this Premier Cru’s top performers. Yet there is something intriguing about this Aux Brûlée… I will be prudent with my assessment for now. 90-92 Points
Vines that sit near Richebourg.
This nose is more shy but seems very fine, faintly oak-smoked but perfumed too. Mouth-filling, mouth-watering, here is a wine that’s fresh, and concentrated but not at all fat. Faintly tannic but almost without grain. To keep a while but you will be rewarded – wait 5 years. Beautiful finishing flavour despite a little tannin. Potentially excellent wine.
Reduction dominates everything save for subtle spice wisps that are discernible through the funk. The rich, seductive and caressing medium-bodied flavors also coat the palate thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm tannic spine shaping the balanced and youthfully austere finale. This will also need to develop more depth but like the Nuits 1er Cru, this also has an excellent aging track record. 90-93
The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas 1er Cru, the monopole belonging to Michel Gros, has a fragrant bouquet with sensual wild strawberry and raspberry notes, orange blossom and crushed rock. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, lovely balance, very stylish with a lot of panache towards the finish. This might be one of the most nuanced and desirable Clos des Réas that I have encountered from this address. Bravo. 92-94 Points
January 2023. Cask sample. A little more open on the nose than the village Vosne, slightly paler hue. Lovely floral edge. Fine combination of sweet fruit, fragrance, purity and structure for longer ageing. Very complete but really needs several years. 17/20
It’s over 160 years that the family have Clos de Réas!
Again, oak spice and smoke but mixed with good freshness and becoming floral too. Gas. Sinuous, fluid, and a little tannin. This is another small step up – it’s going to be excellent. The finish with extra energy.
A whiff of green tea is present on the mostly red berry fruit aromas that are cut with copious amount of earth and humus. There is excellent underlying tension suffusing the big-bodied and solidly concentrated flavors that flash evident power on the distinctly austere, even firm and solidly persistent finale. A classic Clos de Vougeot. 91-93
The 2021 Clos de Vougeot le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The 100% new oak (three barrels) dominates the finish and obscures some of the terroir expression. It’s just a bit laboured compared to its peers. 89-91 Points
All new oak here.
Obviously oak-spiced and modestly smoky. I like the shape of this though it doesn’t fill the mouth so much today. But the finish is impressively wide and long. A wine that needs plenty more elevage and will also require some patience in your cellar – 10-12 years would be a great starting point…
