2020 is a vintage marked by its exceptional earliness and high level of sunshine, resulting in small yields and very great concentration.
After a 2019-20 winter that was normal in terms of rainfall, but again very mild with a very low number of frosty days, new growth showed early signs from end February. Bud-break kicked in from end March and year 2020 was already declaring itself as extremely precocious. After a few cooler days at the beginning of April, temperatures rose again and green growth forged ahead. Over the second part of April and throughout May, this growth continued at a good rate, with two new leaves per week. The team at the domain worked flat out to complete de-budding in time and to keep pace with growth through successive trellis-wire liftings. Vine flowering set off on the Côte around 18th May and finished in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuitsatthe end of May. Summer then arrived, with weather that was again marked by high heat and low rainfall. Until mid-July this situation remained favourable to the vines, with veraison occurring very early and announcing a record early harvest for vintage 2020. This weather was at the same time unfavourable to the development of mildew and oïdium, so grape health was perfect. Over end July and the month of August, the lack of water began to be felt and the hillier parcels of vines began to yellow. Ripening continued at a good rate, but grapes did not swell, due to the lack of water.
Harvesting began at the domain on 28th August for La Côte and ended on 10th September up in the Hautes-Côtes. As in 2018 and 2019, grape health was absolutely perfect and sorting hardly necessary.
This perfect healthiness, advanced maturity and the light weight of berries due to lack of rainfall brought wines with great concentration, but equally with more notable freshness and acidity than in 2019. In summary, 2020 follows along the lines of vintages 2015 and 2018/2019; a vintage of very well-developed ripeness, giving pure and precise wines with extreme concentration and beautiful balance.
Cask sample. Surprisingly broad and ripe on the palate for an Hautes-Côtes. Just a little one-dimensional although there is an interesting mineral finish. 15.5
Ripe apricot fruit on the generous aroma. Medium- full and creamy, with a touch of pithy apricot skin and plenty of freshness and tension. Almond kernel and sapidity to finish. Yummy.
A relatively deeply pitched nose features notes of ripe plum, dark currant and a whiff of pinot spice. There is fine mid-palate density to the moderately powerful middle weight flavors that offer very good depth and persistence on the lingering finish. This isn’t refined but it does deliver fine quality. 86-89 ♥
A moderately reduced nose seems notably ripe. There is again very good density to the slightly more vibrant flavors that conclude in a lingering if mildly austere finish that is less complex. This should repay a few years of cellaring. 86-88
A discreet but perceptible dollop of wood frames ripe aromas of black raspberry, violet and a floral wisp. The sleek, delicious and vibrant flavors possess more evident salinity on the slightly edgy bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This may or may not lose the edginess in the short time it has to age. 85-88
A more restrained and slightly cooler nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis and soft earth suggestions. The finer and nicely vibrant middle weight flavors evidence more minerality on the lingering finish that is also ever-so-mildly edgy along with a hint of dryness. Again, it’s hard to predict whether the edginess will dissipate. 85-88
Ripe strawberry fruit aroma, the succulence flecked with white pepper. Generously rounded and juicy; full and ripe, with light snap to the tannin and appetizing bite. Full on the front palate, quite open and airy through the middle, and more delicate and precise to finish.
The Vosne-Romanée shows fine balance, and while the oak is prominent, it seems well absorbed. It has deep fruit that’s well-integrated with the toasty oak, giving quite a big village for medium-term drinking. Give it ten years, and the oak should mellow into Vosne spiciness. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Once again there is just enough wood to notice surrounding the ripe and nicely spicy aromas of black cherry, poached plum and exotic tea scented nose. There is fine richness to the concentrated, mouth coating and powerful middle weight plus flavors that conclude in a robust, even slightly butch, and rustic finale. Patience absolutely advised. 87-89
A slightly toasty nose combines notes of cassis and poached plum with those of violet, spice and a whiff of warm earth. The finer medium-bodied flavors possess a seductive texture on the palate coating finish that displays fine depth and persistence. This quality effort manages to pull off the trick of being robust yet refined. 89-91 ♥
The Chambolle-Musigny brings energy to the feast. The minerality and acidity give this wine lovely freshness and zip. I have never tasted this cuvee before, but I will look for it again. A good Chambolle from Vosne? Why not! (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Discreet though again perceptible wood influence still easily allows the very ripe aromas of chocolate, cassis and dark currant liqueur to be appreciated. The rich, ripe, palate coating and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors manage to retain very good punch on the raspy, mildly edgy, rustic and youthfully austere finale. 87-89
It’s on the dark side, and the toast is ample for my palate. However, the extraction is only moderate, so in the end, it works quite well. That said, the toasty oak and dark Nuits fruit do not release much energy in this wine. (Drink from 2030) – Good (87p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Black-cherry aroma then an energetic palate with a firm bite of tannin, encased in rich dark fruit.
A slightly herbal note. Very fresh, with a smoky, graphite finish.
Deeply intense, but with better energy, this seems to carry the oak better. The extraction is reasonable and lets the wine reveal itself a bit. Still, it’s not going to win any awards for the most hedonistic wine. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Here too there is a touch of wood setting off the wild black currant, earth and sauvage scents. There is again good punch to the mouth coating flavors that display better balance on the slightly longer and more structured finale. 88-91
Upright and up-toned, floral and bright. The straight, clipped palate is enfolded in ripe red fruits. Firmly threaded with acidity and well defined at the edges. The finish is savoury, salty and sappy. Spot-on. Both racy and ripe.
A slightly more elegant if decidedly less spicy and cooler nose speaks of red cherry, raspberry and pretty floral nuances. The sleek, delicious and notably more mineral-driven flavors possess a finer texture on the detailed and sneaky long finish that is better-balanced. 88-91
A perfumed and very pretty nose offers up an array of red and dark berry aromas laced with hints of earth, spice and the sauvage. The medium weight flavors follow suit in that they are relatively elegant in the context of what is typical for La Platière, all wrapped in a nicely persistent, balanced and complex finale. 88-91
A very ripe nose is presently a bit flat and lacks the same freshness as the best in the range. By contrast there is excellent verve and freshness on the dense, serious and sappy medium weight plus flavors that brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a beautifully persistent and complex finale. Given the freshness on the palate, I’m guessing the nose will eventually freshness as well and my predicted ranged offers the benefit of the doubt. 91-93 ♥
The issue in 2020 is concentration, and wines like Nuits-Saint-Georges can become dense and inky if over-extracted. This is well balanced, with the ample fruit absorbing the oak well. Not bad; not bad at all. (Drink from 2033) – Very Good (88-90p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
A quite haughty aroma, then reserved on the palate. Shows good depth and density, with a firm grip to the tannin. Vigorous and powerful on the finish.
It is ripe but has a colder cut. Good persistence.
Aux Brûlées is my favourite terroir at Domaine Michel Gros – its parcel is located next to the illustrious Liger-Belair and the magnificent Meo-Camuzet plots. It’s spicy and mineral with lovely energy, and it carries the toasty oak well thanks to said energy. A large cuvee for Brûlées – 2500 bottles – and it’s a fine one. (Drink from 2035) – Very Fine (93-94p) – Tasted 19/01/2022 –
Pungent aromas of reduction and wood suppress the underlying fruit at present. Otherwise, there is a highly seductive and refined texture to the medium weight flavors that brim with sappy dry extract on the detailed, stony and compact finale that is supported by both firm tannins and bright acidity. Worth considering. 90-93 ♥
Notes of menthol and toast are present on the nose of kirsch, poached plum and plethora of spice nuances. The velvety and delicious middle weight flavors possess plenty of punch on the firmly structured finale that is supported by bright acidity. This is still coming together and will need at least a few years of cellaring before it shows its best. 90-93 ♥
Which is better, Brulees or Reas? In 2020, it’s not that easy to say. The Clos des Réas is a bit more restrained and delicate than the energetic Brûlées. Commercially, Clos des Réas is an important wine for the domaine – and it has done very well with the 2020. Borderline hedonistic, if you like the style. (Drink from 2037) – Fine (92-93p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
Moderate but not really intrusive wood sets off very ripe aromas of poached plum, cassis, black cherry liqueur and warm earth scents. The succulent, velvety and mouth coating big-bodied flavors flash evident power and muscularity on the youthfully austere and impressively long finish. Note that this is very much built to reward extended cellaring and should age accordingly. 91-93
The Clos Vougeot is a big wine with a large framework of toasted oak. It has fine balance, and with time the oak should integrate beautifully. It’s big, long, and intense, and will take some years to unfold. It has good energy, but at the moment the oak is masking some of the liveliness. (Drink from 2040) – Very Fine (93-94p) – Tasted 19/01/2022
